Or something. I am not planning to make this look stock, like I did to my ' This will have no interior aside from a driver's seat and some gauges somewhere, and some of the stock carpet to keep any stray pebbles tracked in from rattling on the bare metal floor. Where it gets a little fuzzy is up front. I think the Century's stock struts and knuckles may be okay to reuse, since I don't plan on this being anything other than a straight line vehicle.
I'm not really sure yet what to do about the steering rack and how to modify the subframe to allow the transmission to mount up to the body. F-body seems like the way to go, maybe even with an F-body column. After that, I don't know how I would mate the rack to the knuckles and keep some semblance of stability. EDIT: To pre-empt anyone who might say it simply can't be done:.
That is a Cutlass Ciera, the sister car to my Century, doing a wheel stand. I haven't found any build information yet, but I'm told it is a stock body, not a silhouette car that is, a tube chassis. I would get the engine and trans and mock them up in the car before worrying about where the steering is going. I would fab up the trans mounts.
I am thinking there is no way to use stock ones from any vehicle. You'll end up cutting and massaging part of the firewall and tunnel I'm sure. As for the front suspension, make sure the front wheel bearings don't need an axle stub installed to stay together, if they do you'll need to remove the cup from the fwd axle and install it in the knuckle. As for the rear, it looks like it building a truck arm would be the easier route? Other than that, anything is possible with a cutoff wheel and a welder.
Just repeat this to yourself any time you question your ability: "im a redneck with a rabbits foot and no fear of failure". I will definitely have to fabricate all the engine and transmission mounts.
My brother with the Z28 is a welder and has offered his fabrication services as needed. Mockup will be waiting for some time, since the only parts I have so far are the aforementioned Z28's stock exhaust manifolds. He installed headers. The hub is bolted to the knuckle and is a sealed unit. So far I don't see a need to have anything in it to hold it together.
Time will tell. You should still "cage" the hub bearings as they could come apart or develop play over time. Not as exciting but probably cheaper and packaging would probably be easier. By my math there's probably an oilpan that needs to be changed or modified and at least one exhaust manifold.
I could see a lot of the floor around the firewall needing work to fit around whatever transmission you go with. Also the previously mentioned trans mount. Rear suspension may not be that bad but understand that the forces traveling through it from the rear axle when accelerating weren't really designed into the car. My car has a 3. I'm hesitant to commit to the stock engine though, since it would be pretty much the same amount of work to change the orientation as it would to use a V8.
My car also does not have the same subframe style as the S trucks or F cars. Fairly compact and cubic. Really quick and dirty measuring of the engine bay says it should fit fairly well, with maybe the brake booster and hood clearance being an issue if I can't get the engine to sit low. Might have to "massage" the hood a bit. I'm not sure what to do about the booster. I may also have to use a "front sump" oil pan, I think for a GTO, to make room for a steering rack.
Maybe I'm wrong though. I don't know yet. In my other interwebs travels I found Smith Performance. According to their site, they've been doing this very conversion for 30 years, starting with a Cutlass Ciera back in Their site is critically short on details, so I sent them an e-mail, assuming they're still in business.
LS4 definitely would be "easier"! I'm not after easy though. If you mean transversely mounted in the back, I have entertained that idea as well, but that presents a different set of challenges. You can convert front-engine cars into a mid-mounted engine for a rear wheel drive, which lends power to the back wheels. A rear wheel drive conversion is not a new concept, as car drivers have been experimenting to achieve the perfect RWD conversion for years.
A standard rear-wheel drive procedure includes cutting the car, designing a new chassis and reassembling the entire thing with an engine, and a drive train. If you have decided to go for the conversion, then it would be worthwhile to get an engine, which provides the necessary power. For example, if you are looking to convert a four-cylinder, then you should choose a V6 model from the same engine manufacturer.
It includes removing the car engine , transmission, suspension, front-cross member, and strut tower. However, keep in mind not to damage the computer or any other wires.
You would need to generate a sub-frame for the drive assembly. You can weld tubular supports along the corners of the strut towers and connect them with the frame. It is an essential step during the Rear wheel drive conversions process. Sub-frame is needed as the next step 4. Installing The Bar You need to install a toe-adjustment bar with independent rear suspension, which works in rear-drive cars. Besides, install it in place of the stock power steering back. Dashboard Dashboard styling, guages and digital dashboards Read more Ways to protect the paint on your car.
This site uses cookies: Your use of this site implies acceptance of these,you can disable cookies read more. Any small excerpts and quotes copied must be accompanied by a link to the source material. We detect all unauthorised copyright material taken from our site the moment it is picked up by the search engines using pattern matching tools. Use of this site: Please treat the information on this site as purely speculative.
Our content is protected by CopyScape. We accept no responsibility for damage caused due to following a recommendation made on this site or in the forum. It is your responsibility to check and verify any car tuning tip, car styling tip or other articles content with a qualified mechanic before undertaking work or following instructions.
Something suitable for one model of car may be completely unsuitable for another - so we can only give generic theory. Please drive sensibly we do not endorse speeding or racing on the public highway or driving recklessly or in a manner than could endanger life or property. Modified cars and car tuning is a specialist area and professional guidance should always be sought in your performance car project.
Save racing for the track and keep the roads safe. Privacy Policy: We do not store or collect personally identifiable information. Cookies are used to track visitor behaviour enabling us to monitor and optimise the effectiveness of our content, and to remember your preferences and settings on this site.
Our advertising partners may also use cookies in accordance with their respective privacy policies to provide adverts of most interest to you based on sites you visit and search terms and collate interest based statistics to do so.
To read more on this and how to opt out click here All information held by us is kept secure and confidential and will not be divulged to others. Rear wheel drive conversion guide. Power delivery through a RWD setup means you can run much higher power figures. Converting to rear wheel drive is only a project for the brave, with lots of skill and very deep pockets! Feedback Please use our forums if you wish to ask a tuning question , and please note we do not sell parts or services, we are just an online magazine.
Help us improve, leave a suggestion or tip Click here to cancel reply. Lightening the flywheel Transmission , Tuning.
Richard says:. April 19, at pm.
0コメント